So
what’s the truth about Papua New Guinea? Is it really a lawless land where
angels fear to tread, as the Australian media tends to portray it? The honest
answer is yes and no. "Yes" there is opportunistic crime in the
major towns and general lawlessness in a couple of areas, especially the Southern
Highlands Province. "No" the rest of the country is very safe for
travellers. Village areas are actually the safest and friendliest destinations
for visitors. Tribal fights flare up from time to time but visitors are always
warned away from these areas in advance.
Crime
in urban areas of PNG, Solomons, Fiji and other South Pacific nations is no
worse than in cities in developing countries in other parts of the world.
The perception that crime in PNG is out of control is precipitated by the
popular perception (in the West) of the South Seas being a tranquil part of
the world where the local people just lie on the beach and eat coconuts all
day. South Pacific Islands are supposed to be laid-back paradises where the
only thing stirring is the breeze. 30 years ago this was in fact the case.
Apart from tribal fights, violent crime in Melanesian countries was virtually
unheard of prior to the 1970s.
These
days in PNG however, this expectation of peace and tranquillity is confronted
by the harsh social and economic realities of a country with 5 million people
that only began to emerge from the stone age 100 years ago. Urban drift and
unemployment create overcrowding, poverty and crime in the major towns. In
Port Moresby, Lae and Mount Hagen it is possible to be attacked and robbed
if you are in the wrong place at the wrong time. This can also happen to you
on the Cairns foreshore or in Sydney’s Hyde Park. It’s just that when these
things happen in PNG it all seems so much more grave because things like that
aren’t supposed to happen in the idyllic South Seas.
It
is also unfortunate that isolated incidents sometimes paint a bleak picture
of the whole country and tourists are warned to stay away. This is illogical
on two counts. First it is like saying that tourists shouldn’t go to Ayer’s
Rock because somebody was mugged in Sydney. Secondly it should be noted that
crime against tourists is actually very rare in PNG. Criminals steer clear
of tourists because they know tourists carry traveler’s checks, foreign currency
and other silly forms of money that can’t be passed over the counter in local
shops. PNG crooks target local business people carrying large amounts of kina,
not tourists carrying Visa cards and loose change.
That
said, here is some helpful general advice for visitors. While hotels and other
areas with security guards like airports and museums are usually safe, unpatrolled
public areas are sometimes frequented by petty thieves, pickpockets, beggars
and amateur con-men.
Beggars and
pickpockets
In
shopping centres or supermarket carparks in the major towns you may be approached
by street boys asking for money. (For some reason they are always boys, not
girls, so you might wonder why "poverty" is so exclusive to one
gender). They look scruffy and point to their bellies and ask for "any
coins". Some of these boys are genuinely in need but many of them beg
by choice because it's easier than collecting bottles and cans to sell. Most
street kids in PNG do have homes - albeit poor ones - where they go at night
to eat and sleep. During the day they do not attend school but beg and pick
pockets to collect money which often seems to be spent on alcohol. If you
give money to street boys you are not only contributing to their next alcohol
binge but you are also announcing to everybody watching that you are carrying
money. While you are focused on that one child you don’t notice his older
mates who are standing some distance away, watching to see how much money
you are carrying and which pocket you keep your money in. Never pull your
wallet out in public places. If you must give something, give food, soap or
clothing rather than cash. If you really want to help street kids, donate
to the Port Moresby City Mission or the Salvation Army who are better at identifying
the genuinely needy and running organised programs to help them.
You
may also see the occasional adult beggar in the shopping centres, sometimes
with physical disabilities. The same beggars are there every day and the city
administrations discourage people from giving them money because it takes
away the incentive for them to participate in gainful employment or return
to their villages and participate in the village lifestyle. Since the basic
wage is about K5 a day and begging can bring over K10 a day, the beggars do
considerably better than their employed relatives. They will survive without
your coin, so do yourself a favour and resist the temptation to pull your
money out in public.
You
will not encounter beggars outside the shopping areas in the larger towns.
It’s almost as if there is an unwritten rule limiting begging to the shopping
centres. And once you are outside the cities you won’t encounter beggars anywhere
else in PNG. In fact, most rural Papua New Guineans are shocked and offended
when they visit the city and are approached by beggars.
Pickpockets
also tend to hang out in shopping centres and markets. Gordons Market and
Boroko shopping centre are notable locations in Port Moresby. Pickpockets
are usually young boys who move around in groups. One of them might distract
you by asking for money or something while the other comes up behind you
and goes for your pocket or handbag. If you do need to go to a shopping
centre or market, leave your handbag and valuables hidden in your hotel
room and just carry as much money as you need for your shopping (PNG hotel
rooms are pretty safe). Carry your wallet or purse somewhere under your
shirt or top. Don’t wear a bumbag unless it is threaded through your belt
loops otherwise it is too easy for a pickpocket to cut the strap and make
off with it. Carry small amounts of cash in your pockets so you won't have
to bring out your wallet in front of everybody.
Con-men
Although the vast majority of Papua New Guineans are honest and genuine
people there is the occasional con-man who tries to take foreigners for
a ride. Usually this simply involves telling a heart-rending tale to
get you to part with some money. Common stories include "my mother
is sick and I have no money to take her to the private doctor/buy medicines",
"my aunt died and we have no place to bury her and we need money to
buy a cemetery plot/to charter a plane to take her body to the village",
"my brother is getting married next week but we can't meet the bride
price payment and it's going to be cancelled". Usually these stories
are only partly true or completely false. Almost always, any money you give
will be spent on beer.
Papua New Guineans
tend to be a little shy when meeting foreigners and they usually wait for
you to initiate a conversation. So beware of total strangers who come straight
up to you in public places with lines like "Hello, are you going somewhere?",
"Hi, remember me, I met you last time", or "Can I help you
with anything?"
If you are pressured
or intimidated for a donation, say: "I'm paying all my bills with my
credit card and I only have a little cash". Alternatively you can turn
the tables and ask him to meet you again tomorrow when you'll give him something,
then just don't turn up. Don't tell Mr Confidence where you're staying.
White lies are very permissable when you are not sure who you are dealing
with.
